Something Good to Eat from Miss Eliza's English Kitchen

                                                                 

We at Cook the Books Club, have been reading and posting some inspired cooking for this, our February/March selection, Miss Eliza's English Kitchen, by Annabel Abbs.  The current round is hosted by Amy of Amy's Cooking Adventures. I enjoyed the novel immensely, so true to life, it's close to being a memoir. The characters, flaws and all, are well developed and inspiring. It also helped that the story is close to my own heart for gardening, cooking and finding new uses for the plants and herbs God has so magnificently provided us.

From the Library Journal Review..."the brilliant real-life story of Eliza Acton and her assistant as they revolutionized British cooking and cookbooks around the world. Before Mrs. Beeton and well before Julia Child, there was Eliza Acton, who changed the course of cookery writing forever. England, 1835 London is awash with thrilling new ingredients, from rare spices to exotic fruits. But no one knows how to use them. When Eliza Acton is told by her publisher to write a cookery book instead of the poetry she loves, she refuses - until her bankrupt father is forced to flee the country. As a woman, Eliza has few options. Although shes never set foot in a kitchen, she begins collecting recipes and teaching herself to cook. Much to her surprise she discovers a talent - and a passion - for the culinary arts. Eliza hires young, destitute Ann Kirby to assist her. As they cook together, Ann learns about poetry, love and ambition. The two develop a radical friendship, breaking the boundaries of class while creating new ways of writing recipes. .... Based on the true story of the first modern cookery writer, Miss Eliza's English Kitchen is a spellbinding novel about female friendship, the struggle for independence, and the transcendent pleasures and solace of food."

There was a good amount of food to be inspired by, as you might imagine, and mine came at the very end of the book.  Eliza is visiting her sister, for the first time in her new home, as a married woman.  She is shocked at the awful state of the basement kitchen, never visited by the lady of the house.  Waking very early one morning she goes into what has become her own favorite place at home, the kitchen, and begins putting together some potato rolls that Ann had told her about.  "A bread her mother made using potatoes rubbed, quite hot, through a coarse sieve."

And, of course, there had to be soup to accompany those rolls.  I thought a big pot of Minestrone would be perfect.  And friends over to share it all!  The rolls were delicious and so was the soup and company!  Here is the recipe I used, though you could use regular yeast if you don't have a sourdough starter.

Soft Sourdough Potato Rolls

yield: ABOUT 17 ROLLS
prep time: 25 MINUTES
cook time: 15 MINUTES
additional time: 10 HOURS
total time: 10 HOURS 40 MINUTES

Ingredients
100g (1/2 cup) active sourdough starter (100% hydration)
120g (1/2 cup) whole milk, scalded and cooled*
75g (1/3 cup) salted butter, softened
50g (1/4 cup) granulated sugar
105g (1/2 cup) mashed potatoes (or 22g
1 large egg, beaten
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
440g (about 3-1/4 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour (may need more or less)
1½ tablespoons melted butter for brushing the rolls after baking

Instructions:

Add sourdough starter, cooled milk, softened butter, sugar, mashed potatoes, beaten egg, salt, and flour to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook or cookie paddles (reserve the 1-1/2 T melted butter for later).
Mix until a smooth dough forms. Add additional flour a little at a time if your dough is too sticky. The dough should pull away from the sides and bottom of the bowl when you have enough flour. No additional kneading is necessary.

Transfer your dough to a large oiled bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Allow the bowl to sit on the counter at room temperature for 4 hours.
At this point, you may leave the dough out for 4 more hours if you're baking the same day, or transfer it to the refrigerator to bake after 24 hours-3 days. 

Pull your bowl out of the fridge one hour before forming your rolls to allow the dough to come back to room temperature.
Form the dough into about 17 rolls. For uniform rolls, weigh each ball of dough on a kitchen scale and make them 58 grams a piece.
Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with a damp tea towel or plastic wrap, and allow to proof in a warm area for about 2 hours or until the rolls look "poofy."
Bake on the center rack in a 375°F oven for 12-15 minutes or until rolls are lightly golden.
Brush the warm rolls with the 1½ T. melted butter.
Serve warm. Allow any leftovers to cool completely, then store in an airtight container for up to 3 days or freeze.
Notes. *heat milk to 180°F, then allow to cool

Be sure to stay tuned to Cook the Books for the coming Round Up at the end of March featuring all our posts. 

From Rambutans to Risotto for Bite by Bite

 

Well, I haven't posted for a bit, lots going on here, between cleaning off the fine dusting of volcanic glass, called locally Pele's hair and trying to keep up with my gardening, singlehanded almost.  The first time I remember Volcanic ash coming all this far down the mountain.  Also, hosted a a lovely gathering of ladies today demonstrating how to make wine with local fruits.

Anyway, our current book selection for Cook the Books Club has been, Bite By Bite, Nourishments & Jamborees by Aimee Nezhukumatathil, and hosted this round by Simona of Briciole.  The Anthology is a delightful, poetic compilation of short essays about food and the author's memories associated with various fruits and meals she has enjoyed over the years.  Everything from Rambutans to Risotto!

From The Booklist Review: Nezhukumatathil's prowess as a poet infuses this unique memoir-meditation on the foods that mean the most to her. In addition to familiar U.S. fare, she walks readers through fruits exotic to North America, like mangosteen and rambutan, and foods like bangus (fish) and lumpia, common in the Philippines, where her mother hails from. Each chapter weaves facts, trivia, mythology, and personal stories together, linking Nezhukumatathil's food subjects through space and time in a meandering fashion. Her meditation on strawberries, for instance, mixes personal anecdotes about the fruit--reminding readers of the artificial strawberry scent applied to Strawberry Shortcake dolls in the 1980s--with trivia about historical uses and lore (the ancient Romans used strawberries as a cure for depression). She ties it all up with vivid prose that recalls the excitement of a mother anticipating her child eating their first handpicked berry. This whimsical and soothing work will appeal to fans of food writing, memoirs, intercultural stories, and poetry.    

For cooking inspiration, I was especially taken with her tantalizing description of a Mushroom Risotto she and her husband enjoyed in the Swiss Alps.  And, of course I had to make it!  Hard to say if it was as good as the one in Aimee's memory, but damn good all the same! A fresh salad of slivered kale and cherry tomatoes was a perfect contrast.  The recipe from Ina Garten on Food.com is the one I used.  Adding all the various mushrooms I could lay my hands on.

I just posted this in the very nick of time, as today is the deadline!  Be sure to check in for Simona's Roundup of everyone's posts and cooking inspirations, which should be online at Cook The Books a few days from now.  As well as a preview of our upcoming new book selection.