Jubilee and a Cajun Catfish Etoufee

I was recently invited to be part of a review event for Jubilee, Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking, a just published, new cookbook by Toni Tipton-Martin.  Thanks Camilla for extending the invite. 

About the book, from the Publishers:

"More than 100 recipes that paint a rich, varied picture of the true history of African American cooking—from a James Beard Award–winning food writer

NAMED ONE OF FALL’S BEST COOKBOOKS BY The New York Times • Bon Appétit • Eater • Food & Wine • Kitchn • Chowhound

Throughout her career, Toni Tipton-Martin has shed new light on the history, breadth, and depth of African American cuisine. She’s introduced us to black cooks, some long forgotten, who established much of what’s considered to be our national cuisine. After all, if Thomas Jefferson introduced French haute cuisine to this country, who do you think actually cooked it?

Sous Vide at Home, a Salad and Ahi alla Pesto

Sous Vide  - the device and a book -  my Christmas present to myself.  Cheers!! Fun with a new appliance.  At least it takes up very little room when not in use.  I did try McGivering this technique, without too much success a number of years ago.  There are now amazing  and inexpensive tools for doing sous vide at home, like the restaurants do it.  The handy tool clamps onto a large pot of water, circulating and heating it to an exact temperature, programmed to cook for the set time. You probably know all this, but it was only recently brought to my attention.  Sous-Vide at Home, by Lisa Q. Fetterman, is the bomb!.

So far I've done the poached eggs, beets marinated in various good things and ahi in pesto.  Looking forward to making duck confit without loads of duck fat, tempering chocolate and infusing liqueurs.

A Long Time Gone and Hawaiian Style Gumbo

 This novel, A Long Time Gone, by Karen White, takes place in the Mississippi Delta, my okra is getting harvested, and I was in the mood for Gumbo.  Life working in concert.  I'm calling it Hawaiian style because there is Ahi tuna in it, Kauai shrimp and vegetables from my Hawaiian garden.  Most traditional gumbos won't have fish other than shrimp and crab, but as Bob is picky about shellfish generally, I have been adding in fresh ahi to various dishes that call for shellfish.  So we're both meant to be happy.  Theoretically.

I do believe this is the first book by Karen White I have read, and will certainly be reading more.  She is an excellent storyteller.  Her novel involves a family where it seems the women always leave their children behind at some point.  They come back and often leave again.  It concerns the emotional damage and the danger of  relying on assumptions about the motives of others, frequently false assumptions,  rather than giving the benefit of doubt, until we know better, also the need for forgiveness,and  letting go of bitterness.

As the Publisher's blurb states: "When Vivien Walker left her home in the Mississippi Delta, she swore never to go back, as generations of the women in her family had.  But in the spring, nine years to the day since she left, that's exactly what happens --- Vivien returns, fleeing from a broken marriage and her lost dreams for children."

White weaves together seamlessly the family relationships, and Delta history going back several generations, up to and including the recent broken tie with Vivien's step-daughter.  Then there is the mystery of a woman's bones found under a lightening felled cypress in the back garden, as well as a new romance with an old love.  Terrific reading.

Sauce Allemande for Daring Cooks

 This month, the Daring Cooks got a little saucy! Jenni from the Gingered Whisk taught us the basics of how to make the five mother-sauces and encouraged us to get creative with them, creating a wide variety of delicious, fresh sauces in our very own kitchens.

As Jenni quotes Julia Child, from Mastering the Art of French Cooking: “Sauces are the splendor and glory of cooking, yet there is nothing serious or mysterious about making them. These are indispensable to the home cook”.  Well, I've been making all sorts of sauces for a great many years, being the old lady that I am, so the real job was to find the untried, the tasteful new horizon. 

I had a nice piece of ahi tuna, left from the previous night's dinner, and wanted to do something other than mash it up and make sandwiches, or slice it onto a big Salade Nicoise, (admittedly tempting in this still hot summer weather).  But just enough for a dinner for two.  Nicely sauced.

A famous French chef of the early 19th century, Antonin Carême said there were 5 classic "mother"sauces: Béchamel, Velouté, Espagnole, Hollandaise and Tomato, and from these, which were given for our challenge, listed with their various derivatives, I thought the Sauce Allemande, an off-shoot of Velouté, sounded yummy and just right for that fish.

I first made a batch of stock from my hoarded freezer bag of goodies (mostly chicken bones with some carrot, onion and celery bits), strained it all, then put into the fridge to let the fat rise and harden, for lifting off.  Then you might reduce your stock to concentrate the flavor.

Sauce Allemande
   adapted from Joy of Cooking by Irma Rombauer

2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups of stock, chicken, veal or vegetable
salt and pepper
1 egg yolk mixed with 2 tablespoons cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon capers (optional, but nice with fish)

Melt the butter, add flour and then the stock and seasoning.  Simmer and stir until well combined and thickened.  Off the heat whisk well the egg yolk and cream and add gradually to the sauce whilst whisking.  Stir the sauce until slightly thickened.  Do not re-boil.  Just before serving, stir in the lemon juice, butter and capers.

Made a bit more than needed, but delightful tasting, subtle delicate flavors to aid and albeit a nice piece of fish, or veal would also be good.  Highly recommended.  I have plans to consider for the extra sauce.  And, that recipe made quite a bit of sauce.

Next night report: I ladled it onto steamed new potatoes as a side with tenderloin steaks.  Really, really yummy.

Hawaiian style - Poke, rhymes with okey dokey

Poke is a local treat, usually made with raw ahi tuna, though other fish are used as well, mixed with some type of seaweed, green onion, and various spices.  The secret ingredient is often roasted kukui nut, also called candlenut, which together with Hawaiian salt, make up that special flavor combination known around here as Inamona.

With a handy Kukui (Candlenut) tree in our back garden, I decided to go through the process of making my own inamona.  I had gathered a basket full and let the nuts brown in the sun for several weeks, as per directions found online.  

Cream-braised Green Cabbage with Seared Ahi for Cook the Books Club

Our latest Cook the Books Club pick is Molly Wizenberg's delicious little memoir-cookbook, A Homemade Life.  Molly writes a popular blog, Orangette as well as contributing food related articles to newspapers and magazines, such as Bon Appetit.  In this, her first book, she carries off a fine, well-integrated balance of personal reminiscence and culinary writing.

 Something about this book just got me trying things.  Often I can have a cookbook on my shelf for years, without actually making anything from it.  However, for the past few months I have been enjoying an unprecedented  number of recipes from A Homemade Life.

For instance, normally, I'm with Brandon on the cabbage question.  I love raw cabbage and rarely cook it, so of course, I first had to make his Cabbage Salad with Lemon and Black Pepper, which was excellent of course, but then I wanted to try the cabbage cooked in cream method.  It just sounded so decadent.  And, since the recipe made enough for four, it gave me two meals' worth.

On night number one, I served the creamy, tender cabbage with seared ahi and a salad of fresh tomatoes and basil.  Sweet, and slightly caramelized, the cabbage was wonderful. 

Afterwords, just looking at all that lovely cream sauce lapping the remainder of our cabbage, I thought maybe, when Bob's not looking, I'll just slurp it all up.  It was that good.  But, adding chicken, and serving over egg noodles would also be wonderful for night number two.  And, guess what?  It was.  I removed the meat from two baked chicken breasts, added it to the cabbage in cream sauce, and gently warmed both together before serving over the hot noodles.

More also rans from Wizenberg's book were the Bouchons au Thon (a kind of tuna muffin), were tasty both hot and cold; the delicious Turkey Meatballs with Lemon Yogurt Sauce (which as it turned out, I liked better with the sauce cooked); and a most excellent Butternut Squash Soup with Pear and Vanilla.  Also her Ratatouille, a dish I've made for years (though still prefer my simpler method),  inspired me to add Scampi, bringing about a wonderful new combination of two old standards. 

The lovely thing about all this is that there are still more recipes to try.  I have bookmarked her Little Corn Cakes with Bacon, Tomato and Avocado for my next brunch or dinner appetizer.  Be watching out for the Cook the Books Club Round-up to see what everyone else whipped up from our enticing little selection.

Grilled Ahi and Vegetable Pasta Toss

 Sometimes you just have to call it like it is.  If I mumbled the title in Italian, I'm sure this dish would sound more impressive.  But, just so you know ahead of time, the taste is impressive enough in any language.  And a dish that starts off with fresh, good grade, locally caught ahi tuna, is going in the right direction.  As long as you don't mess it up by over-cooking.  You want it barrrrrrly done.  Even a bit pink inside.  And luckily,  the veggies take the same amount of time.  Which is no time at all.

Assemble some fresh vegetables to complement the fabulous fresh fish, a few herbs and seasonings, you're on a roll.  The veggies serve as a sort of rack for the tuna.  Get that pasta water started.  The oven pre-heated to broil with a rack about 4 inches from the flame.

Grilled Ahi Tortelli Salad

This is definitely the weather for salads and cold soups.  Summer may be almost done for some of you, but in Hawaii, it is here in full force.  I don't want to even think about turning my oven on.  The perfect dinner salad is one where you open the refrigerator, take everything out, toss the contents together in a nice big bowl, and that is IT.  You have my permission to stand for long moments, with the fridge door open just enough to almost enclose yourself inside.

Start with your al dente noodles (tasty gluten free ones, by the way),  rinse, toss them with a bit of olive oil, and set aside to cool down.  Into the bowl go chunks of fabulous, grilled tuna, left from yesterday's meal, tender green beans, just lightly steamed, crispy slices of  cucumber, marinated slivers of paprika peppers, kalamata black olives, and lashings of romaine, all nicely coated with an olive oil, garlic and balsamic vinaigrette. 

Rice & Corn Tortelli is the pasta, and I highly recommend it.  Good flavor, cute shape, and everything "free", as you will notice.  Except for the package itself.  I did have to pay for that.

So, I am contributing my beat-the-heat, Ahi Tortelli Salad for our weekly Presto Pasta Nights get-together, currently hosted by our illustrious founder and maintainer, Ruth of Once Upon a Feast.  Check out the many tasty dishes there for meal inspiration.  I get tons of great ideas every week.

Le Migliori Polpette di Tonno or Tunaballs

Just so you know, right off the bat, these cannot be improved upon by using (murdering) a nice piece of fresh ahi tuna.  Frozen might be excusable.  They are quite excellent, in a groove of their own.  This marvelous recipe converts canned tuna, yes folks, you heard it right, to... ta da....a new dimension. Originally inspired by a Jamie Oliver recipe, considerably altered here, and again by me right here.  So, you have the advantage of all the bugs being worked out.

Le Migliori Polpette di Tonno

Serves 4-6
 I did not include directions for the marinara sauce.  I think you can handle that.  If not, or even if, there are some excellent prepared versions out there. The pasta as well, just use your favorite.

And, you will get no careful photos of the preparation.  By the time we realized it was going to be post worthy, the meal was finished.  So next day, before eating those two remaining Tunaballs for lunch, I quickly whipped out my camera.

Miracle of Fishes and Ahi Enchaladas

This is what comes of meditations in the middle of the night, thanks to the Martha Stewart of birdland, up in my eves.  She's busy at all hours, probably disturbing the sleep of her chicks, re-arranging furniture, cleaning, organizing.  One can only imagine.  Rustlings and bustlings at that hour(s) - 12:30, 2:00 am, 3:30, and etc.??  Maybe she's an insomniac or on crystal meth?  I've heard that sort of behavior is a sure sign of such an addiction. It's now 10:54 am and she's still at it.  Bless her heart.

At any rate, I've decided we had a "Loaves and Fishes" miracle here.  Bob asked a client and his wife over for dinner and brought me home four ahi steaks (as per my request).  I made a coconut cream curry for them, which came out superbly, if I do say so.  They were large steaks, so we had leftovers, plus I hadn't even cooked one of them.  So, then Sunday, I broiled the extra one, added it to the other left-overs, a bit more coconut cream and, voila, dinner for daughter, grandkids, etc., very good as well.

And, still, with the left-overs.  So, several nights later, and only Isaiah to join us, I made fish enchaladas.  Mushed up the last of the ahi (there was also some broiled, chopped onion in there) with a bit of  left-over pumpkin, and a little minced salted lemon; then filled tortillas; heated some tomatillo green enchalada sauce, mixed with sour cream; poured over the enchaladas; and sprinkled with grated cheese and minced parsley.  Baked at 350F for 25 min. or so.

Yes, another awesome meal from those four original fillets.  Bob said it was the best, and I had to post about it.  He and Isaiah waited while I got the camera, suggesting plating ideas.

Afterwards, of course, there was extra stuffing left from filling all the tortillas.  So, the next day, Kealani and I had tuna melts with it for lunch.  A miracle?  Or am I just the left-over queen?

Ahi with Braised Watercress & Red Pepper Coulis

Happy St. Pat's!
My presentation usually leaves something to be desired. I'm going to work on that aspect of cooking. Oh brother, I made enough of the coulis for two dinners - what comes of following directions too closely - and could have braised up all of my watercress as it cooked down so much. The recipe was adapted (not enough) from Sam Choy's Sauteed Onaga with Red Pepper Coulis and Braised Watercress. Especially for today we need more green in this, but the colors were brilliant anyway, and everything tasted superb together. I used ahi - Bob's favorite (and the only fish he really wants to be confronted with). The remaining coulis will be great with some Corn Fritters I'm planning to make.

What started this off was beautiful, big red bell peppers in our Natural Foods Market at an unbelievably low price. Usually they're right out of sight and I'll get one at the most, once in awhile. Then, I've been wanting to make a coulis of some sort, since I figured out what the heck it was. I tried straining this one after pureeing, as instructed, but it was coming out way too thin and leaving all that nice vegetable behind, so I pushed it through a bit more, then just combined everything. I'm not a trained chef, folks, just trying stuff as we go along. I have to tell you though, it turned out fine. The vibrant red bell pepper taste really sings.

Since you all most likely have your favorite way of cooking a nice fillet or two of fish, I'll just give Sam Choy's Red Pepper Coulis recipe. The watercress, cut into 1 inch segments, was simply wilted in 2 tablespoons of butter. His recipe only called for 1/2 cup of cress! I don't think that wee bit would even show up under the fish. He instructs to place the watercress in the center of the plate and put the fish on top, then decorate with the sauce. He also whipped up a Kabocha Squash Sauce to make things even more special. As you may have noticed, I just put the bit of green to one side and let it all swim in red sauce. I would definitely suggest using a whole bunch of watercress. And, I only used 1 1/2 peppers, though they were big ones. Still, as I said it made quite a bit. Nothing wrong with that.

Red Pepper Coulis

2 red bell peppers, medium dice
4 shallots, medium dice
2-3 oz. vermouth
6 oz. white wine
1 sprig of thyme
2 oz. dry sherry
salt & pepper to taste

Split red peppers in half, remove seeds and dice. In a sauce pan, add the red peppers, shallots, 2-3 oz. wine and the vermouth, and thyme. Boil for 25 minutes.

Puree and strain, and season with salt, pepper and sherry. I cooked the sherry along with the wine and vermouth.

Island Ahi With Spicy Cacao Sauce

This is all about an event thought up by Susan of Sticky, Gooey, Creamy, Chewy and Marc of No Recipes (who is hosting this one). Each month a different movie is selected for everyone to watch and be inspired to create a recipe from. This month's movie is Chocolat.

I was going to call my sauce a curry, as I did in an earlier version posted this year, but on second thought, the origins point as well to South America, home of cacao, and the moles of Mexico, where cacao is often an ingredient. A mole is traditionally a very complex assortment of ingredients, time-consuming to prepare. Most Mexican restaurants don't bother, aside from guacamole that is. Although, there are some fairly simple moles in the book of Frida Kahlo's recipes. Perhaps my concoction is an aberration, not Mexican, or Indian or even Eurasian. Though sauce is such a mundane word. Oh well. This recipe, however, has aside from some Indian and Mexican spices - cardamom, chili pepper, avocado leaf and cinnamon; also Asian elements - lemongrass and galangal, which all combined to work with and complement the cacao and ahi.

As in the movie Chocolat, where the confectioner used unusual flavors to surprise and delight her patrons, I was inspired to strive for that result. I not only love chocolate, I am growing the tree to keep us in good supply and love experimenting with its fruit.



I used fresh, locally caught, ahi (tuna) for this and some of the other ingredients are very local as well - from my garden: the cacao nibs, lemongrass, chilies, galangal, macadamia nuts, avocado leaf, lemon, with basil and starfruit to garnish.

Cacao Curry and Processing Pain

Admittedly this looks a bit messy. But, by the time I thought to take a picture, there was not much left. It's ahi (tuna) steamed with onion in banana leaves and topped with my take on a cacao nibs curry.

What starts as stiff joints, pain and numbness in the hands finally takes me to Honolulu for an exam and cortisone shot. On the good side, our trip to the big city included dinner at Indigo, where the son of a friend works. A delightful and inspiring restaurant with various indoor and courtyard eating areas and three bars. Decorated with an eclectic whimsey and strong South East Asian influences, Indigo has almost the feeling of a seraglio (or what I'd imagine anyway). From the unobtrusive street front, you would never guess all this was going on inside. The food, billed as Eurasian cuisine, was terrific as well.

You might have guessed by now that I had fish with a cocoa curry, and yes, also served in a banana leaf. Chef Glenn Chu's creation was delicious, but much more subtle. I decided to try for a distinctly spicy, with overt cacao taste in my version last night. And, that turned out to be a nice contrast to the rather bland ahi.

I feel so blessed, we also had brunch at Sam Choy's and got to try their pastry chef's signature macarons - haupia and papaya. Here I'd just been reading a few food bloggers' takes on macarons, David Lebovitz for one, and had decided I'd not be making anything that complicated. Though, as a later amendment, I found this recipe, which looks yummy and not too very difficult. Wow! Not to mention another high point - next morning at my all time favorite place for breakfast - it's called Orchids, at the Halekulani Hotel. God is kind. There is pain, yes, but some awesome stuff as well. I won't even discuss the shopping.

bright lights, big city