Gravlax - A New Salmon Experience

Well, new for me at any rate.  I was doing that thing Foodies do, whilst reading a book.  Some intriguing food is mentioned, a light bulb then goes off, research is done on the handy smart phone, and a recipe appears. The book in question was The Body in the Kelp, one in a series by Katherine Hall Page. The protagonist, Faith Fairchild, is a caterer and of course, part time sleuth. The books are fun, light reading. With the added inducement of delicious food mentions.

Faith was busy planning a meal for some incoming guests, her sister (whom she characterizes as someone whose culinary skills are knowing the right numbers to dial) and brother-in-law.  Well, she is busy making Salmon Gravlax.  And so on and so forth. Of course, after finding out what the heck it was, I realized that 2 big fillets of salmon had just taken up residence in my fridge.  Nicely defrosted now and ready for whatever.  Bob had been given them by a customer visiting from Alaska.  Talk about perfect timing!  

Hawaiian Food for Island of Sweet Pies and Soldiers

Our latest selection for Cook the Books Club is Island of Sweet Pies and Soldiers, by Sara Ackerman, hosted by fellow Hawaii blogger, Deb from Kahakai Kitchen. Especially interesting to me as a resident on the island where this all takes place - The Big Island!  And so fascinating to visit a familiar locale at this time in the past. I don't believe I've ever read a book dealing with WWII and its impact on Hawaii, particularly The Big Island.

Other than the pies, there wasn't a whole lot of food mentions. Not that I noticed anyway. However, given the ambiance, we can use our imaginations. From the Publishers:

"Hawaii, 1944. The Pacific battles of World War II continue to threaten American soil, and on the home front, the bonds of friendship and the strength of love are tested.

Violet Iverson and her young daughter, Ella, are piecing their lives together one year after the disappearance of her husband. As rumors swirl and questions about his loyalties surface, Violet believes Ella knows something. But Ella is stubbornly silent. Something—or someone—has scared her. And with the island overrun by troops training for a secret mission, tension and suspicion between neighbors is rising.

Violet bands together with her close friends to get through the difficult days. To support themselves, they open a pie stand near the military base, offering the soldiers a little homemade comfort. Try as she might, Violet can’t ignore her attraction to the brash marine who comes to her aid when the women are accused of spying. Desperate to discover the truth behind what happened to her husband, while keeping her friends and daughter safe, Violet is torn by guilt, fear and longing as she faces losing everything. Again."

I had family over and prepared them a Hawaiian themed dinner. Kalua pork, Lomi Lomi Salmon, Macaroni Salad (local style) and Coconut cake. The Kalua pork was a first for me, and made in the pressure cooker. Traditionally, a whole pig would be slow cooked, overnight in an imu (a large rock and banana leaf lined pit in the ground, as they did in the book for their Christmas party). Much easier to start with some locally sourced, free range pork shoulder roast, a few banana leaves and some liquid smoke.  Oh yes!  It totally worked.

Lomi Lomi Salmon on The Last Cruise

I truly enjoyed my vicarious trip aboard the 1950s vintage ocean liner, Queen Isabella, on  The Last Cruise, by Kate Christensen.  Before heading to a scrapyard, the dowager vessel is making her last run, a final voyage to Hawaii and back, with all the bells and whistles, highlighting an era of luxury cruising.  The novel gives us a terrific peek into life behind the scenes with various passengers, an owner, the kitchen crew, and  relationships within a Jewish String Quartet, also facing the end of their careers.

From the Publishers:
"For the guests on board, among them Christine Thorne, a former journalist turned Maine farmer, it's a chance to experience the bygone mid-20th century era of decadent luxury cruising, complete with fine dining, classic highballs, string quartets, and sophisticated jazz. Smoking is allowed but not cell phones--or children, for that matter. 

But this is the second decade of an uncertain new millennium, not the sunny, heedless fifties, and certain disquieting signs of strife and malfunction above and below decks intrude on the festivities. Down in the main galley, Mick Szabo, a battle-weary Hungarian executive sous-chef, watches escalating tensions among the crew. Meanwhile, Miriam Koslow, an elderly Israeli violinist with the Sabra Quartet, becomes increasingly aware of the age-related vulnerabilities of the ship herself and the cynical corners cut by the cruise ship company, Cabaret.  When a time of crisis begins, Christine, Mick, and Miriam find themselves facing the unknown together in an unexpected and startling test of their characters."

The Algerian Couscous Connection

Don't you love finding terrific new authors?  Often I'll read the review for a brand new book, not even out yet, (which can be frustrating), but will go find what other books that author has written, read those reviews and perhaps check  one out.  Here's an enjoyable read by Juliet Blackwell, The Paris Key. first of a new series.   I noticed she had other books in series that didn't appeal (witches, ghosts and paranormal fiction), but this one definitely did, and I've already reserved her follow up to it.

A young American woman, Genevieve, with family ties to France, and even to Algeria, returns to Paris after the breakup of her marriage.  The city was where she spent some happy time as a troubled adolescent, with her loving aunt and uncle.  When he dies, she returns to find solace there once more, wearing around her neck an unusual key she inherited from her mother.  I loved all the connections, between family lost and found, secrets kept and finally revealed, past and present.  From the publishers:

"As a girl, Genevieve Martin spent the happiest summer of her life in Paris, learning the delicate art of locksmithing at her uncle’s side. But since then, living back in the States, she has become more private, more subdued. She has been an observer of life rather than an active participant, holding herself back from those around her, including her soon-to-be-ex-husband.

Amazing Food from Garlic and Sapphires

On this round of Cook the Books Club we have been reading and getting inspired by Garlic and Sapphires, a Ruth Reichl memoir, hosted by moi.  Like Miss Ruth, I am a woman who goes through life seeing the comic absurdity at play all around me.  Perhaps why I so appreciate her writing.  The disguises she literally got into here!

And, I absolutely love her many transfixing culinary descriptions. For instance, on the occasion of a meal at Jean-Georges' restaurant in the Trump Tower, in a hastily put together disguise: "'A little amuse bouche as a gift from the chef,' (which should have been the clue she was made) murmured the waiter, setting down a minuscule porcini tart framed by a delicate salad of tiny herbs.  I ate slowly, first the lacy licorice-flavored chervil, then sturdy, spicy wild parsley, and finally the aggressive little fronds of dill.  Poring through them I discovered a single leaf of lamb's quarter, bits of sorrel, dandelion, chickweed.  I followed the flavors in my mind until the walls vanished and I emerged into a deep glade that grew more distinct with each bite.  It was disappointing to come out of the woods...."

At that same meal there are creamed morels, spooned over asparagus.  That certainly caught me up, along with everything else.  But, perhaps something I could manage, when asparagus is back in season.  Later, there was Salmon with a Moroccan glaze, wild mushroom dumplings, scalloped potatoes, Risotto with Lobster and rosemary, Gougeres, and so on and on, throughout this tribute to food and the inventive chefs she encountered during her tenure as food critic for the NY Times.

Salmon en Croute and Scarlet Feather for Cook the Books Club

Scarlet Feather by Maeve Binchy has been our June/July book pick for Cook the Books Club, as well as my first hosting experience there.  I was pretty sure I had read this novel sometime in the past, but to be honest, once I got (re-)? reading it, the story was absolutely new to me.  Maeve Binchy was the starting point however.  Knowing that I wanted us at Cook the Books Club to feature one of her wonderful novels, I selected this one for the culinary connection.  And it does indeed contain lots of foodie inspirations

The book concerns a pair of friends from cooking school who have the dream of opening their own catering business.  An engrossing story, covering the process of getting Scarlet Feather (named for the duo - Tom Feather and Cathy Scarlet) the perfect premises, funded and established, including the connections and interesting personalities of all the various relatives, friends and, unknown to them, enemies, with lots of humor and understanding.
 
Binchy is well known for her delightful and humorous depiction of unique  and memorable characters, both good and bad, and this novel has plenty of them.  I especially loved the funny, precocious, abandoned  twins who come to stay and end up living with Cathy and her family.  Tom and Cathy face almost insurmountable odds both in their personal lives as well as with their business.  But, are a fictional illustration of what can be overcome and be the impetus for growth in life.

Among many treats mentioned in the book was Salmon en Croute, which called to mind some wonderful meals we enjoyed in Ireland featuring salmon.  A fish which also brings to mind an old Irish legend about the "Salmon of Knowledge."  Perhaps eating salmon makes you wiser?

Brussels Sprout Risotto with Amish Blue

Bob sadly, likes his Brussels sprouts plain, either boiled or steamed.  What he doesn't realize is that there would be no challenge, or fun at all for the chef in complying.  That said, some of these sprouts were indeed simmered, albeit shredded, with the Arborio rice, and some quartered and fried to garnish the top.  So theoretically, we're both going to be happy here??  Right? 

Favorite Fishy Patties for Daring Cooks

I would never have thought to post about some mundane fish patties were it not for this month's challenge.  The Daring Cooks’ February 2012 challenge was hosted by Audax & Lis and they chose to present Patties for their ease of construction, ingredients and deliciousness! We were given several recipes, and learned the different types of binders and cooking methods to produce our own tasty patties!

Those aren't green sunflower seeds, it's the parsley ground in with them.

As it turns out, this was an opportunity to improv off a favorite easy recipe of mine, whose source is lost in the distant past..  These patties are very simple, using no flour or eggs, but ground sunflower seeds for the binder, which works very well.  They hold together beautifully.  It calls for a can of salmon, tuna, or mackerel, but as I had some left-over cooked salmon and perhaps half a can of sardines, guess what went in these?  Add to that whatever herbs you like, half an onion, and some vinegar.  I told you this was easy.  As an added bonus, the recipe is so versatile.  Different seasonings, different fish.  You can see the orange flecks of salmon in there, bits of green parsley.  If I had any dill that would have been an obvious choice.

Slow-Roasted Glazed Salmon

The recipe called for "wild king salmon".  I don't know, this was fresh farmed, Atlantic.  However, do you look a gift, 4 lb. lovely salmon fillet in the mouth?  Not that there was a head to peer into.  But I have to tell you, this slow cook, glazed routine was fabulous.  So, melting succulent, tender and delicious, accented by that tangy sauce, no one was complaining Ms. Reichl.  It was her recipe in the Gourmet Today Cookbook that I almost followed to the letter.  I had ventured previously into the slow cook realm with smoked salmon, but this was a much easier slow cook method.  Like in your oven.

We don't actually know who the gift is from.  It was left in the fridge at our office, along with a nice package of "Smoked Salmon Cocktail Slices" in assorted flavors.  No one seemed to have any idea as to the donor.  How could it get there without anyone noticing?  Santa at midnight?? Well, thank you, whoever you are.  A Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours!

Smoking Salmon for Charcutepalooza

Since the latest challenge from the folks at Charcutepalooza was hot smoking meat or fish, and we were blessed to be given a 3 lb. piece of wild red salmon by our hunter/fisherman/pilot friend, the selection of what to smoke this month was pretty obvious.  Not so clear was the" how to" of it all, though  I had the feeling that if sufficient directions were found, and I followed them step by step, then my first attempt at smoking wouldn't be a complete disaster.  And, I was right.  That salmon smoked up beautifully, moist, flavorful and tender.  I cut the piece in half lengthwise, so there would be skin on just one side of each, and so it wouldn't be so thick. Next it went into a salt and sugar brine flavored with toasted, crushed coriander seeds, 5 Spice and yellow miso for 2 hours at room temperature.

We have a Grillware charcoal BBQ, which has a thermometer on the hinged lid, which made things simpler.  Also a hand crank to raise and lower the grill level, which made adding extra chips and coals easier.  I went on the side of less charcoal being better.  You can add heat easier than taking it away, was my thought.  I used apple wood chips, soaked overnight, but they dried out after an hour, and weren't smoking much, so I threw on some fresh green guava wood pieces to continue producing smoke.  I had 2 old metal pans of water under the fish, as advised.  So, the salmon went for 3 hours at very low heat, and got a good dose of smoke along the way.

So many ways to serve this wonderful smoky flavored fish. One of my favorites was Open-faced Smoked Salmon Sandwiches on whole grains bread.

Lomi Lomi Salmon Stuffed Avocado and Laulaus

This month we were given the challenge/assignment by Daring Cooks to do edible containers.  First off, I made stuffed mustard cabbage leaves with a filling that included  fish and fresh corn, baked in a broth.  Since I was not all that happy with the way they turned out, it was back to the drawing board.

Renata of Testado, Provado & Aprovado! was our Daring Cooks’ April 2011 hostess. Renata challenged us to think “outside the plate” and create our own edible containers! Prizes are being awarded to the most creative edible container and filling, so vote on your favorite from April 17th to May 16th at http://thedaringkitchen.com!

My final decision was to go Hawaiian.  I have lived here for the better part of my life, though have never posted about two staples of the luau scene.  So, that had to be remedied.   Lomi lomi Salmon is made with salt salmon, and usually served as a side with Lau laus, kalua pork and poi.  Especially poi, as its blandness is a perfect foil to the intense zap of onion, lemon and salt salmon.  I thought an avocado half would serve that same purpose, while holding the salad like a little bowl.

Between the two dishes, you need to plan ahead and start early.  This salmon recipe makes a gargantuan amount, which I cut way down, buying a small package of (8 oz.) salted salmon.  I used two small tomatoes and only 1/2 an onion, and 2 green onions.  That gave plenty for 4 avocado halves.

Salmon Topped Skordalia, with Greek Tomato and Cucumber Salad

The Skordalia started out to be Hummus.  But, somewhere between the internet and Michael Symon, it morphed into a potato, garlic, lemon and chickpea thing, with the catchy name, Skordalia.  I love the sound of that.  Like some sort of Greek flower.  Mr. Symon says that there are two types of skordalia sauces in Greece.  One made with potatoes and garlic and the other with day-old breadcrumbs, almonds and garlic.  He likes the second, and folds in chickpeas to give it texture.  Well, for some strange reason (maybe because of what I had available) the first option sounded like just the thing.  Keeping to the beans added in.  Traditionally, this is served with fried fish, and since I had salmon planned, I said to myself, perfecto!

These beans after soaking overnight for hummus, and with a slight change in plan, were destined to become something new and different.  Something wonderful.  The garbanzos (ceci or chickpeas) cook for an hour or so - til tender.  Note that a cup of dry swells to almost 2 cups, then when cooked, to a wee bit over 2 cups.

Salmon Ravioli with Brown Butter Sauce

I have to say that I love, love, love ravioli.  Tempting little pockets, hiding delicious morsels inside them, swathed with a touch of simple brown butter and thyme, or coated in marinara.  So, here I go again.  This incarnation it is smoked salmon, preserved lemon and spring onion inside, with brown butter, thyme and white wine reduction for the finish, just to nicely coat them.

I found some smaller (3x3") won ton/ravioli wraps from the same folks who make the larger ones, NaSoya,   Pictured on my Lemon Feta Ravioli post.  So, less cutting is required. Use your round, 2 1/2 inch cookie cutter.  Or, you could just have slightly larger square or triangle shaped pasta. Yes, one day soon - perhaps next week - I will actually do that thing where you put a heap of flour on your counter, crack an egg into it and make the dough myself.  Until then, I am singing the praises of this little store bought item.  I tell you, by the time I finish with enough ravioli for just the two of us, plus the nice beets with greens and basil salad, then whipping up a sauce, it somehow seems like enough already.  Maybe it's my time of life.

This salad of cooked beets  with their greens, and bits of basil was such a beautiful contrast, accenting the pasta.  Thank you CSA folks.  I used a simple vinaigrette dressing on it.

Lychees and Kedgeree

Lychees, it's summer and that's the good news. I'm sitting here writing with a bag of frozen lima beans in the back of my pants, trying to get some relief from an incredible lower back displacement. Tomorrow is chiropractor appointment #2, so I'm asking for prayer. Also a recipe for something wonderful to do with unfrozen lima beans. Maybe just steamed with some butter?

Which reminds me, last week, for the Fourth of July we had potato salad, among other things. I boiled too many potatoes and had a full container of extra. What popped into my head is the real mystery. I don't believe in akashic records so it's probably even spelled wrong, but maybe the ancient Celts in my DNA were speaking to me? (a joke folks, just a joke) Anyway, the word kedgeree came to me, mash those potatoes up and add that slice of smoked salmon from the freezer, with sauteed onions in butter. Now I looked it up, so I do know that kedgeree is from India. And there's supposed to be rice with boiled eggs. But hey, this is my version, and there were a lot of Scotch, Irish and English over there for a time, if I'm not mistaken. I added some minced dill and basil as well, salt, pepper, more melted butter and dumped it all into a nice ceramic pot, topped with grated cheddar and baked at 350 C for about 30 minutes. We all liked it a lot. That last piece is now gone.